The Science of Anti-Aging Skin Creams

Peptides

Peptides, or amino acid chains, are any compound consisting of two or more amino acids (the building blocks of cells). In the generic sense, peptides are small pieces of protein molecules, which are believed to be beneficial for hair and skin because of their film forming and moisturizing properties. They are also thought to trigger biological activity in cells, specifically for regeneration and collagen synthesis.

There are various types of peptides available: The most popular for cosmetic use are palmitoyl pentapeptides and oligopeptides-34. Penta refers to the fact that the peptide contains five amino acids and, while ‘oligo’ (meaning few) is less specific and indicates that the peptide chain consists of less than 30 amino acids.

Strivectin-SD was the first palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 cream to be launched as an anti-wrinkle skin care product. It had originally been developed to reduce stretch marks, but when patients saw how well it worked on their stretch marks they began using it on their faces. The product achieved cult status and the peptide frenzy was unleashed. A less expensive option is Olay’s Regenerist range. Olay scientists combined peptides in an exclusive deliver system with Vitamin B3, vitamin E and green tea extract, to create their patented amino-peptide complex.

Researchers claim that palmitoyl pentapeptide is as effective as retinol in improving the effects of photo-aging without the side effects associated with retinol (predominantly very dry skin. It's been shown to thicken the skin about one and a half times faster than retinol. According to medical information group PSL creams containing this ingredient treat skin roughness, along with wrinkle volume and wrinkle depth. It also triggers growth in elastin and collagen fibres, which improves the structure of the skin.

On his blog, Dr Jeffrey Benabio, an assistant dermatology professor at the University of California, explains that another group of peptides might block the transmission on nerves to your facial muscles, creating a 'botox like' effect. In particular a neuropeptide called argireline has been shown in laboratory tests to block the release of neurotransmitters from nerves. Neuropeptides are commonly sold in products called wrinkle relax creams and are an important component of specialist lines like DR NV Perricone.

Another variant, copper peptides, are said to promote collagen production and act as antioxidants. They are needed for skin healing and to help remove damaged collagen. Neutrogena’s Visibly Firm Night Cream and IS Clinical Advance+ C Eye Gel contain copper peptides.

Sederma SA has become one of the first French companies to develop peptides for cosmetic use using palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 under the trademark Matrixyl. It consists of amino acids linked together and attached to a fatty acid to enhance oil solubility for better skin penetration.

According to the manufacturer Matrixyl contains messengers for skin structuring and repair. “The messengers are supposed to activate the synthesis of extra cellular matrix molecules providing a visible anti-wrinkle efficacy.

The extra cellular matrix is the largest component of normal skin and gives skin its unique properties of compressibility, strength and elasticity. It's a gel like matrix produced by the cells that it surrounds and comprises water, collagen proteins and polysaccharides, a type of complex carbohydrate.

Overall peptides sound phenomenal in their ability to assist the skin, but as with most new scientific endeavours it's best to be cautious until a product has proven itself.

If you decide to try palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, keep in mind that its concentration in a product should be sufficiently high. A good way to tell is to read the label, as it may have percentages of the active ingredients.

Growth Factors

There is much speculation and controversy regarding human growth hormone factors (GHF) and how they affect the body and the skin. Said to be an effective wound healer and skin regenerator, HGF are produced throughout the body and are not to be confused with human growth hormone(HGH) which is produced in the pituitary gland and stimulates growth and cell reproduction. Many professional athletes, body builders and celebrities take HGH supplements to look younger, build muscles, feel healthier and have tighter and firmer skin, even though this is believed to be a risky practice that should be avoided.

Human Growth Factor is a complex family of hormones that are produced by the body to control cell growth and cell division in skin, blood, bones and nerve tissue. They regulate the division and reproduction of cells and encourage cell proliferation. HGF's re now being synthesised and used in medicine for wound healing and immune system stimulation, and are also being promoted for wrinkle removal. There are 'cosmoceuticals' that contain different types of growth factors of both plant and animal origin. Cytokines are plant growth factors that have been shown to delay age-related changes in vitro-cultured human cells, slowing the aging process. Furfuryladenine (kinetin) is a synthetic plant factor that delays ageing of plant cells, and has been shown to retard aging in vitro (i.e. in a test tube).

There is a body of research that touts HGF's as the answer to warding of wrinkles. Based on scientific protocol, research shows that when you add some forms of HGF's to cells in a petri dish, they live longer than they would on their own. American Beauty watchdog, Paula Begouin says, "while it sounds like your skin would stay forever young with HGF's, the flip side is that if you add too much, the skin cells die sooner than they would if you hadn't added any! The research is certainly intriguing but there is still much unknown, especially in terms of long term risk or stability"

While HGF's could be the next big thing, their effects are a work in progress, and much additional research is needed to understand how and why they work and to substantiate their safety.